TH1 SS 20 Hair Trend Predictions
Thomas Hills, Director of TH1 reveals the hottest style trends of Spring/Summer 2020
Love it or hate it, it’s impossible to ignore next season’s trend for masculine detailing. Several Fashion Week S/S20 shows paraded models sporting traditionally feminine styles peppered with unexpected masculine details. It’s a trend that creates a real style dichotomy within one look – which I personally love – and it’s also an exciting new way to create androgynous styling. Prada demonstrated the most extreme take on this trend: models’ ponytails were given a masculine edge with the addition of sideburns, while at Victoria Beckham, the traditionally very ladylike chignon was worn low, with roots ironed flat to the scalp resulting in a very groomed and pulled together, yet masculine vibe. Coach was another show where models’ locks were given a tomboyish flair, and at Emilia Wickstead, models were given two looks, both aimed at straddling a careful balance between femininity and masculinity, with a focus on profile elongation and smooth finishes throughout. I see this trend having legs – it has the potential to voice a message beyond the style itself, and that’s something trend-savvy clients are looking for. My most recent Indistinguishable collection is a portfolio of images with very similarly androgynous styles full of boyish detailing and masculine feels. This style is particularly reminiscent of the Prada look, with its male-looking sideburns, while the subtle gradient cuts and razor sharp edges showcased in my Hell Sexy collection throughout the rest of the collection are a continuation of this new season vibe.
This whole new silhouette is becoming increasingly popular on the runways, which I see filtering down to clients and working well commercially. I even predict it will soon rival the traditionally big and bouncy blow-dries that have been so definitive of our era. We saw this trend emerge last season, but this season’s Fashion Week confirms that narrow silhouette hair is here to stay. At Henry Holland’s Spring/Summer ’20 show, models wore their hair in strong, clean centre partings, paired with sleek, smooth, non-voluminous hair. Meanwhile, at Prada, ponytails received the same treatment: in fact, chic, narrow ponytails appear to have replaced big, textured ponies as the new power pony, demonstrating that the new silhouette for hair is sleek and undersized, but quietly powerful. This sharp, chic fringed bob from my Hell Sexy collection epitomises the inherent drama within such a sleek narrow silhouette: while big voluminous hair is flirty and exudes sex appeal, this new season shape is more authoritative, quietly theatrical and incredibly commanding.
Non - Uniform Texture
I've been playing around with different textures within an individual style for a while now – in fact, many of my recent collections place texture as the focus at the heart of the collection. At Fashion Week S/S20, many shows demonstrated the beauty of texture and how simple textural changes can completely transform a look, updating it and giving it a truly modern edge. Alberta Ferretti’s show was probably my favourite take on this: texture was random, with hair blow-dried smooth and then intentional texture added to the back into the lengths with a flat iron and texture spray. The result is what I call ‘modern luxury’: it’s a texture that has become very popular over the last year. At Henry Holland S/S20 show, a medium-barrelled tong was used to add a soft wave to random lengths of hair – the result was ends could fall loosely, with no real uniform. The style is easy to create, has an undone appearance yet manages to look ‘finished’ – which differentiates it from naturally occurring waves. I also spotted mixed textures at Simone Rocha, where chunky thick braids were given an almost embroidered-looking texture, that beautifully reflected the collection, and with volume and structure added in an unexpected and unusual way. Contrasting textures also dominated at Tibi, where styles were composed of mixed finishes – shiny and matte – to complement the fabrics within the designer’s collection. These styles from my Hell Sexy collection are the perfect nod to this trend, combining a selection of different textures within each style.
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